This post on pueblo dances in Northern New Mexico first published in December 2010 was updated on 11/18/2015
One of the greatest cultural resources in New Mexico are the pueblos, home to indigenous peoples for hundreds of years. All but one of the Eight Northern Pueblos are within an hour’s drive of Santa Fe. Taos is a little further.
The pueblos continue to follow traditional spiritual practices as they have done for uncounted generations. Today, many are intertwined with the Catholicism the Spanish forced them to embrace. Ceremonial dances are a vital part of pueblo life. Many fall over the Christmas holiday season and are open to the public. The exact meaning of the dances can only be guessed at by outsiders; they are private about their religious practices. Dances are often part of larger ceremonies not shared with outsiders. These may have gone on for days prior to the public part of these rituals. Click here for a schedule of pueblo dances during the Christmas holiday season.
If you go, it is important to follow pueblo etiquette for these spiritual ceremonies. Absolutely no photos are allowed. The best thing to do is leave your cell phone in the car, there are stories of phones being confiscated from people believed to have taken photos. Also, don’t talk to dancers, don’t walk across the dance plaza, don’t ask questions about the dances. Recently, the public was banned from a celebration at one pueblo that was formerly open to them because they violated these simple requests. Remember you’re visiting a sovereign nation on a day that is special to them. It’s an honor to be able to attend these,
Northern New Mexico pueblo dances held at Christmas
Buffalo and Deer Dances are celebrations of thanksgiving to the game animals for making themselves available to the hunters to feed the People. Without these they would starve. The dances may also be part of traditional Solstice ceremonies that existed long before the Spanish came to the “New World”.
Los Matachines reflects the assimilation of Christian influence on the pueblo peoples. The dance, believed to have originated in Spain at the time of Moorish occupation, was brought to the New World by the Spanish settlers. It was used by the Franciscan friars to channel what they considered heathen dances into an acceptable and reverent format. Los Matachines is also danced by people of Spanish descent. It has been performed at Bernalillo, north of Albuquerque, for over three-hundred years. Among the Pueblos, Santa Clara and Jemez use drums for Los Matachines; other Pueblos use fiddle and guitar, harking back to the Spanish origins.
The Turtle Dance seems to have at least two interpretations. According to Jill Sweet, it is a celebration of the fertility, youth, agriculture and rain. According to a discography from New World Records, the Turtle Dance, represents the life-cycle, the end of the old year and beginning of the new. In Masked Gods, Frank Waters, southwest writer and frequent observer of Pueblo life, writes that the Taos Pueblo version of the dance is a representation of the emergence from the third world, water.
Because the Pueblos consider the dances to be sacred, we may never know their exact meaning. Spiritual matters are not shared with outsiders. Observers can only guess.
Christmas Eve pueblo dances
Christmas Eve brings torchlight processions and dances at a few of the Pueblos. (Please note that dances and Pueblos dancing can vary from year to year. Check with the Pueblo for current information)
Nambe– Buffalo Dance starting in the afternoon.
Ohkay Owingeh- Las Matachines bonfires lit at sundown
Picuris– Las Matachines arrive starting late afternoon; Bonfire dance at night
Tesuque dances before and after Mass.
Taos Pueblo On Christmas Eve There is a Vespers service in St. Jerome’s Church at 4pm followed by a candlelight procession carrying the statue of the Virgin around the Plaza. Bonfires are lit and the men shoot rifles into the air to celebrate Christ’s birth. The Taos Pueblo begins events in late afternoon and charges their regular admission for these. Christmas Day admission to the Pueblos is free.
Christmas Day pueblo dances
The Pueblos listed below traditionally hold dances on Christmas Day. (Dances can start anytime from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. You can get a rough time and the dance they are performing by contacting the Pueblo directly.)
Ohkay Owingeh Las Matachinas
Picuris Las Matachinas
Santa Clara Check with the Pueblo about a week before.
San Ildefonso Check with the Pueblo about a week before
Taos Pueblo Check in mid-December to see if they have dances open to the public.
These dances are part of each pueblo’s devout spiritual practice and are religious ceremonies. It is a privilege to attend, and an honor to be allowed to share the ceremonies that are deeply central to their lives. If you go, it is important to follow proper pueblo etiquette. Taos Pueblo recently closed to visitors on feast days because they didn’t respect the simple rules.
Dances start around 10am in most cases (except Christmas Eve) and continue to mid-afternoon with some breaks. These are approximate times; these sacred rituals have their own time frame. They start when they start and they finish when they finish. You are free come and go as you please. Dances may change from year to year as may the pueblos holding them. Check with the pueblo in advance.
Author’s note: If you visit at another time of year and are interested in seeing pueblo dances, check the schedule. for dances that are held on feast days and other occasions. The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center in Albuquerque has dances on weekends.